Wednesday, July 30, 2008

My Home







I’m all settled in with my host my host-family here in the KYG. I’ve been here for a few weeks already and so far, very good. All volunteers have been divided into groups of ten or so and are placed in villages. In these groups we have intensive language, cross-cultural, and technical training. Some are in Russian-language groups and others (like me) are learning Kyrgyz. My host family is absolutely terrific. I have mom, a 10 year old sister, an older brother who’s 27 and drives a taxi, 3 cows, many chickens, and a garden loaded with vegetables. I live with a very religious family and my host mom is incredible. She’s always offering me food and Chai (tea). The food here in Kyrgyzstan is above and beyond what I had expected. Every day I eat the freshest of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, carrots, potatoes, lettuce, eggplant, eggs… this list goes on! The melons: extraordinary. These all come from my backyard. My host mom will pick these foods early and the morning and spend all day preparing them. Man do I eat them up! I’ve never eaten fruits or vegetables this great before. All these foods aren’t grown with the assistance of fertilizers or growth hormone. The livestock we eat (by the way I had sheep for breakfast this morning) is all grass fed. The livestock here are much leaner than the corn-fed cow you would see in the states. Though the meat is a little tougher over here it tastes ten times better. All the food that we eat is unprocessed. Not that I had a whole lot to lose before I got here but by eating this way I’ve actually been losing a few pounds. I eat as much as I want which is a lot. Whenever I finish the food on my plate my host mom quickly throws on another plate full of whatever we are eating. She thinks I’m some sort of garbage disposal or something. I guess this explains the five dumps I’ve been taking every day. The trick is to leave a little food on your plate when you’re full. Then there is no reason to get more food put on your plate. This is called eating seasonally. Since its summer there are LOADS of fresh produce that are in season. Come winter our options will be very limited. Potatoes and some a few veggies will be the staple of our diet. No fruits probably. We’ll see how excited I am about eating seasonally then. Last night I ate cow right off the bone. Skin, fat, meat and all. Welcome to Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz typically don’t drink coffee, just Chai. Chai has hardly any caffeine and is supposed to be pretty good for you. I am a Chai drinking machine. Every meal Chai is served. We’ll have Chai in the morning after breakfast and late in the afternoon. We’ll drink Chai while we talk, while we study language. We’ll have Chai for no reason at all. It is a Kyrgyz belief that cold water will get you sick if you drink it. Drinking hot Chai or hot water is the only appropriate way to drink water. Chai is even drunk when it’s hot outside. It’s been getting close to the 100’s and Chai is still going round. Drinking hot Chai raises your body temp which causes you to sweat and keeps you pretty cool. I’m assuming this is also the Kyrgyz way of keeping cool. I’ve been drinking the chai like a champ lately. My village actually has a serious water problem. There is no running water at my house so we use the community well down the road a little ways. Every few days or so the well will go dry. We have plenty of water on reserve but it’s still pretty scary. The other day I helped my host Aunt climb down to the bottom of the well scrape some grey-colored water from the bottom. Luckily we only used this water for bathing and not cooking. I take a bucket bath maybe twice a week at most. It’s not so bad. The water here is too dirty for Americans. The Peace Corps gave us all these fancy water distillers that filter about a gallon in four hours. We’ve actually had three volunteers already ET (early termination) and headed back to the states. Apparently Kyrgyzstan has a pretty high volunteer dropout rate compared to other countries served. I keep hearing about how hard it will get; especially in the winter. Temperatures can get down into the -20’s and electricity can become almost non-existent. Living here with hardly any language knowledge is pretty difficult. After a field trip to Bishkek a fellow PCVT buddy and I were trying to get a Marshrutka (a taxk-like van that packs passengers in like sardines) back to our village. Since there are no schedules to take this form of public transportation it’s pretty hard getting around to places when you got a time budget. We tried using the little language we know but still the drivers couldn’t understand us. We were getting pretty frustrated (At the time I had to take a monster dump so I was not a happy camper). P.S. after your first bout of Diarrhea in the Peace Corps you become really open about your bowel activity. We eventually hoped on a bus that went through our town for 15 som and made it back safe and sound. My host family is extremely religious. Islam is the primary religion practiced here. My host mom prays five times every day. No television, no music in this household. Because my family is so religious, I don’t have to worry about the infamous Kyrgyz way of pressuring you to down a bottle of vodka in one sitting. (The Peace Corps has been telling us time and time again that the Kyrgyz are very good at pressuring you into shots). I’m pretty relieved that I don’t have to worry about that for the next couple months. I’ve come to believe that if I want to maintain respect from my host family I should not partake in any drinking while I’m here at training. My family does a whole lot for me and to come home slightly belligers from a night boozing with some fellow PCV’s, I believe, I will lose some serious respect. Despite the language barrier, I’m growing pretty close to my host family. Every day when eat together it gets easier and easier to understand what they are saying to me. I’ve been going out on runs on the country roads every other morning or so before language training (it’s the coolest time of day; It gets up in the 100’s during the day). Cattle herders see me and yell “ah Sportsman!” I’m also learning how to hand wash my own clothes which is a workout in itself. There are some intense mountains here in Kyrgyzstan. They aren’t terribly far from our village. I’ll try and post some pictures. Kyrgyzstan is most definitely the Swiss Alps of Asia. Mountains are everywhere. The village I’m training at is a very small rural neighborhood. The way of life here is very slow with a lot of cows and donkeys freely roaming the streets. It’s a lot like the movie Napoleon Dynamite. There is just a lot going on here. I’ve always wants to experience real small town/rural living and here I am. Most homes here have a farm or small plantation to grow foods and raise cattle. The kids here are absolutely hilarious. They all hang out on the neighborhood roads in afternoons and evenings after dinner. No X-Box for these children. I walked out with my little host sister with some gummy worms last week after dinner and all of a sudden 10 kids come out of nowhere each wanting one. The boys come to me every day and want to shake my hand. As-alom al-aikem they say with a hand shake. Al-aikem as-alom I reply. Everyone here is super excited to have Americans in their town. We are almost like celebrities. Since I’m white I’m a minority. Its pain sometimes getting constantly stared at. I’ve found that learning this language well is going to be the key to being successful here. It really makes a lot of sense. The people here are too nice not to talk to. The language training is intense and slowly paying off. It’s definitely something that I’m going to have to work at. My little host sister walks me to class every morning. She insists that she carry my backpack for me. The other day she let me help her milk the cows. Before then I had never milked a cow before. Exhilarating. Speaking of milk I tried the fermented mare’s milk. It’s an alcoholic beverage made from horse’s milk and tastes as good as it sounds. My little host sister can drink this stuff like a champ. In training we are starting to learn about the education system here in the Kyrgyz Republic and how we are going fit in. We’ve started an English club in our village to get some serious English-teaching experience. After spending half of last Friday going door to door spreading the word about our English teaching club we ended up having quite a good turnout yesterday. Children ages 9 to 17 came to learn some killer English skills. We played games like charades and I got a few claps from my monkey impression. Pretty soon we’ll find out where we will be placed for our two-year service. The Kyrgyz Republic is divided into 7 Oblasts (like states in America): Naryn, Issyk-Kul, Batken, Talas, Osh, Dzal-Abad, and Chiu. We could be placed in any of these oblasts except for Batken. Batken borders Tajikistan and Uzbekistan; countries that the Kyrgyz have been having some issue with. There is not internet, let alone computers, in my village so internet has been hard to get. We make trips into the Peace Corps headquarters every week now so I should be able to update my blog more often. By the way the Yurt picture is at a friends house. We got to eat sheep in there one time for lunch. Well that’s it for today. Goodbye! Jakshuh-kalungus!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

So it Starts











The time that I have been waiting for so very patiently has finally come. After over 9 months of


anticipation I have made it over to the country that I will be serving. On the way over to Bishkek last Saturday we had a 7 hour layover in Istanbul, Turkey. After some stressful baggage issues that I had to deal with at the Istanbul airport I joined the rest of the gang for an amazing tour of this fascinating city. My group and I managed to meet this van driver who offered to give us a four hour tour of Istanbul for 150 Lira (I’m pretty sure that’s not how you spell it). It came to about 25 Lira for each of us in our group which was a solid deal. Coming out of the airport we drove along the coastline on our way toward our first sight: the Blue Mosque. The coastline is filled with tankers and fishing boats and the park that stretches along its shores resembles that of Ocean Avenue near downtown Long Beach, California. It was amazing how many boats there were! We passed through the enormous old walls of the old Constantinople and the driver dropped us off as the Mosque. We got to move around by foot to view this incredible structure. We got to view the Mosque from the outside, however, we were not allowed inside because a religious ceremony was going on. This place was incredible. The driver picked us up and continued to drive us through the European side of town where the streets were just crawling with people. Our brief time in Istanbul was just a small taste of what this incredible place has to offer. After a delicious lunch of real Turkish Doner meat we were dropped off back at the airport where we caught our flight to Bishkek. After a five hour turbulent flight we got into Bishkek around 3 AM, drove to our hotel, checked in a passed out. The past couple days have been quite a lot to take in since we’ve begun our Pre-Service Training right here at the Issyk-Kul Hotel outside Bishkek. Our days are loaded with language training, immunizations, and cross-cultural training, however I do manage to make some time and get out and check out the area around the hotel. The hotel is an old Soviet building from the 70’s and looks like a giant military bunker from the outside. If you go outside around the back there is a huge park with some of the most bizarre structures I’ve ever seen. I’ll try and upload some pictures if this strange wonderland. I haven’t been able to check out much Bishkek since we’re not allowed to venture outside the hotel property. Tomorrow is the big day where we get to finally meet our host families for the next three months during our PST. I have to say that I’m a little nervous about meeting the family that I will live with for the next little while and even more nervous about the heavy amount of training I’ll be receiving. Nonetheless this is a very exciting time and the feeling is unlike anything I’ve ever felt before! Just being on this side of the world in this hotel is an experience in itself. The Kyrgyz people I’ve met so far are some of the most caring and friendly people I’ve ever met. The Kyrgyz look like a cross between a white and Asian and speak with a thick Russian-like accent. The Kyrgyz language is somewhat similar to Russian and uses the same written Cyrillic alphabet. Trainees learn either Russian or Kyrgyz depending on their worksite location. I’ve been assigned to learn Kyrgyz which means that I will most likely be placed in a rural area closer to the South. The weather here right now is very warm with clear skies. However, I’m constantly being warned about the brutal winters that will soon follow. I’m still getting used to writing in a blog like this so please pardon my lack of detail. I will be sure to fill everyone in on all some of the nitty-gritty as soon as I settle in with my host family and find more time to write. I’ll be sure to describe the food pretty soon which is a total trip! I’m not sure when I will be the next time I write but there will most definitely be some interesting news the next time I do! Catch you all later!

Friday, July 4, 2008

Cяossing Ovёr

The time has come. Tomarrow morning we drive to JFK airport and at 4:30 we take off for Istambul, Turkey. These past couple days have been pretty packed. I've met all 62 fellow Kyrgyzstan trainees and all of us are pretty amped to get over to Kyrgyzstan. We are the K-16s. The K stands for, well, Kyrgyzstan and the 16 means that we are the 16th group of volunteers to serve in Kyrgyzstan. For the past two days we've been just going over the basics. It would probably take me a few hours to go over all the material we covered so in short the Peace Corps has been trying to instill in us that not only are we crossing over to another culture, we are actually going to be LIVING it. We are going to have to learn to open our minds in ways we never expect. The very smallest of behaviors we have can come accross as disrespectful in the eyes of a foreigner. Even being culturally sensitive on what I write in the blog entries is very important. Last thing I want is to be sent home for writing something offensive about the Kyrgyz culture. It's going to be a walk on the wild side! That is a guarantee. We have a 10 hour layover in Istambul tomarrow which leaves a solid amount of time for us all to check out the city. We need a visa and it only costs about 20 bucks or so. I'll be sure and take some sweet pics and post some up here. In less than 48 hours we will have landed in Bishkek and I think we get in at about 3 AM. The VERY next day we start training! This next week just might be the craziest week of my life. We'll stay in a hotel over there for the first couple nights and then on Wednesday we meet our host family. Absolutely wild. I'm not sure what my internet access will be like but as soon as I get I'll be sure and put in an update. See YOU all on the other side!

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Peacing Out


Today is my last day at home in California before I head out to Kyrgyzstan to be an English Teacher in the Peace Corps for 2 years and 3 months! Wild. This past month I've been living with my parents down here after moving from Eugene, Oregon, where I graduated with a degree in Sociology. After that I worked in the Eugene School District 4J as a substitute teacher to gain some experience in education before I take on teaching high school kids English in Kyrgyzstan. Down hear I've been hanging out with the parents and learning some Russian. The Peace Corps gave all the new volunteers a free trial of Rosetta Stone. Russian is NOT an easy language. Other than that I've been packing, saying goodbye to my buddies, and getting in as much surfing as possible. It wasn't that long ago that I found out that I was going to Kyrgyzstan. During the application process I said I was available to leave in September of this year. Then the Peace Corps called me about 6 weeks ago offering me a placement in Central Asia as an English teacher in early July. Peace Corps sends volunteers to four countries in Central Asia; Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Mongolia, and Turkmenistan. I'm not sure why but I jumped on it and they sent me an invitation and when they sent me that invitation the mail man put it in a random red storage box that was sitting next to the front door at my house in Eugene. The invitation, which stated the country I'd be living in for the next two years, sat in that box for 5 days and I had no idea it was in there. I was convinced that it got lost in the mail. It was torture I tell you! It was pretty difficult wrapping my brain around the idea that I would be leaving for Kyrgyzstan in less than 6 weeks. Most volunteers find out where they're going four months before their departure date. I have to say though that I'm pretty excited that I'm going to Kyrgyzstan. The people there I hear are truly amazing and the country side beautiful. Supposedly it's the Switzerland of Central Asia. Kyrgyzstan became it's own country in the early 1990's when the Soviet Union collapsed. The locals speak Russian in the more 'Russified' area in the north and Kyrgyz in the south. I hear horse is a delicacy. It's been sad saying goodbye to all my family and friends but I'm really looking forward to this experience. Yesterday I got my last surf session hear in the Pacific Ocean and today I had my last bicycle ride around town. I don't believe I'll be doing much bike riding in Kyrgyzstan and unless Lake Issk-Kul, the world's second highest alpine lake, has a descent break, I'll be out of luck for enjoying those activities that I love oh so dearly. It's interesting how much more enjoyable these activities are when your about to leave them for two years. I'm just about all packed up and ready to go. Tomorrow I fly to Philadelphia where I will get to meet the other volunteers (I think there is about 20 or 30 others) and get a few immunizations. After three nights there I fly to Istanbul, Turkey, where I'll have a seven hour layover. After that I fly to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. There I will meet my host family and start language and job training for 11 weeks. After that I get my village placement where I will be teaching at the local high school. I will be at that village for two years. Of course I'll get time to travel and do fun stuff while I'm there but nonetheless, it's going to be very difficult. I can bring 100 lbs. of stuff. It's like packing for a huge camping trip. I've got a sweet new backpack, a 0 degree sleeping bag (it gets below 0 degrees in the Winter), a heavy-duty winter coat, and a ton of underwear and other good stuff. I also packed Goldbond. And Walnuts.